The Dirt on Natural Wine
Explaining the difference between natural, biodynamic, organic and sustainable winemaking
There are inarguably too many buzz words when it comes to talking about wine. Flamboyant. Awkward. Dumb. Like really, what the hell do these things even mean when it comes to taste? What am I supposed to expect a wine to be when someone describes it as foxy?
Foxy wine in her natural habitat.
And although I find these buzzy descriptors quite unhelpful when it comes to actually talking about wine, it’s something I can kind of overlook. The language around wine is just that – a made up language of the wine community that you have to struggle learning just like you would in any language.
[Unfortunately, most wine people are about as friendly and forgiving as Parisians when it comes to pronunciation, making learning anything about wine vocabulary all the more daunting and off-putting.]
Besides having to learn an already made-up language to hang with your sommelier-snob friends (yes, we all have them), taste and smell descriptors are quite personal– so what resonates for some won’t necessarily resonate for others. That laundry room smell of my childhood home might smell quite different to yours. My new car smell reminds me of my grandma, because when my parents inherited her Volvo, I could still smell traces of her perfume.
But while these descriptive words can indulge a little whimsy, there are some buzzwords that should be taken more seriously. Organic. Biodynamic. Natural. Sustainable.
I’m loathe to categorize these words as “buzzy” as they are actual categories with real meaning, but they are indeed marketable enough (as demonstrated by the numerous affiliated wine bars popping up), undefined enough (as they tend to be used interchangeably), and, of course, just plain important (climate change is real, folks, and it’s impacting the wine industry). So, what exactly do any of these words mean?
ORGANIC WINE
Organic wines refer to those which are produced using organic grapes (ie. those grown without chemical farming agents (like pesticides, herbicides, insecticides and most fertilizers)), without GMO yeasts, and with minimal added sulfites. The main goal of organic winemaking is to reduce its overall environmental impact, promote biodiversity and ensure animal welfare and the certification is regulated by the government.
BIODYNAMIC WINE
Whereas organic wine is governmentally regulated, biodynamic wine is overseen by private institutions. It’s more about philosophy rather than practicality, leaving winemakers to rely upon natural agents (such as yeasts) and letting Mother Nature decide when it’s best to harvest.
NATURAL WINE
Natural wine is neither a legal term, nor a technical term, in winemaking and everyone seems to have a different definition of what it means. Generally speaking, natural wines are fermented spontaneously, bottled without use of fining agents, and unfiltered. Some wineries, however, have taken the term “natural” as a way to impress upon the idea that their wine is organic or somehow better for the planet. Sometimes it is organic or biodynamic, but not necessarily.
SUSTAINABLE WINE
While organic and biodynamic winemaking embody the ethos of sustainability, sustainability itself looks beyond just what happens in the vineyard and in the cellar. It tackles issues such as supply chains, energy consumption, carbon neutrality, and social responsibility (also referred to as social sustainability). Because of this, sustainable wines will always be organic and/or biodynamic, but organic and biodynamic wines might not always be sustainable. Always double check the label to know what you’re buying.
Not only is sustainable winemaking better for the planet, but it also results in better wine, as documented by winemakers who have reported a significant difference in quality when looking at wine produced via conventional vs sustainable methods.
Have a favorite sustainable wine? Leave you recommendations in the comments, so I can try them out.
As much as I love to cook, I also really love to eat out….
Currently eating and drinking my way through NYC (plus uncorking the wine bottles I smuggled in my suitcase from Italy).
Favorite bites of this week:
Loomi Babka and Za’atar Morning Bun from Librae Bakery
These are the pastries of my dreams – the babka is sweet and zesty, with lemon curd and black lime layered between pillows of dough. The morning bun is dripping in oil and spices - perfect for the savory breakfast lovers. I have been thinking about this since I tried them for the first time over a year ago.
Stracciatella Affogato from Gentile Gelateria
Coffee, chocolate flecked vanilla gelato, a mountain of whipped cream, fresh espresso – my simple pleasures.
Chorizo Tacos from Derek’s
From a post-wedding snack (as was the case Sunday night), to pre-club fuel-up or a morning-after sober-up, or even just lunch, the chorizo taco (but really any kind of taco) from Derek’s on Wyckoff is my saving grace.